"Hollow to hem" is a term used primarily in the fashion and sewing industries, specifically referring to the length of a garment. It describes the measurement taken from the hollow of the back (the deepest part of the curve of the back just below the waistline) down to the hemline—the bottom edge of the garment. Understanding this measurement is crucial for accurate pattern making, garment construction, and alterations.
This guide will delve deeper into the meaning and significance of "hollow to hem," answering common questions and providing practical insights.
Why is the "Hollow" Point Important?
The hollow of the back is a key anatomical landmark used in clothing construction because it represents a consistent point on the body that's relatively unaffected by individual variations in posture or body shape. Measuring from this consistent point ensures greater accuracy and consistency in garment length, especially for fitted garments like dresses and coats. Using other points, like the natural waistline, can result in inconsistent lengths because waistlines vary widely.
How is Hollow to Hem Measured?
Measuring hollow to hem requires a few simple steps:
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Locate the Hollow: Have the individual stand with good posture. The hollow of the back is the deepest inward curve of the spine just below the waist. You'll feel it easily by gently pressing your fingers along the spine.
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Place the Measuring Tape: Place the measuring tape at the hollow of the back, ensuring it sits snugly against the body but doesn't pull or distort the fabric.
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Measure to the Hemline: Extend the measuring tape down to the desired hemline of the garment. Ensure the garment is lying flat and smooth.
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Record the Measurement: Note the measurement in inches or centimeters. This is your "hollow to hem" measurement.
What's the Difference Between Hollow to Hem and Other Length Measurements?
While "hollow to hem" focuses on back length, other length measurements might use different reference points. For example, "high hip to hem" would measure from the highest point of the hip to the hem, whereas "waist to hem" would measure from the natural waist. Choosing the right measurement depends on the garment's style and fit. For fitted garments, hollow to hem provides the most accurate and consistent length.
How is Hollow to Hem Used in Pattern Making and Sewing?
The hollow-to-hem measurement is a crucial part of creating patterns and sewing garments. It allows designers and seamstresses to:
- Create Accurate Patterns: This measurement ensures that the finished garment is the correct length for the intended wearer.
- Adjust Pattern Length: If a pattern is too long or too short, adjusting the hollow-to-hem measurement allows for precise alterations.
- Ensure Consistent Fit: Using this standard measurement ensures consistency across multiple garments.
How can I use the hollow to hem measurement for alterations?
If you’re altering a garment, your hollow to hem measurement is your guide for adjusting its length. If your garment is too long, you’ll need to shorten the hem by the difference between your desired hollow to hem and the current measurement. Conversely, if it’s too short, you’ll need to add length. Remember always to do a test alteration before committing to the full change.
What if I don't have a precise hollow to hem measurement?
If you don't have a precise hollow to hem measurement for a garment you're making, you can always use a similar garment that fits well as a guide. Lay the garment flat and measure from its hollow to its hem to get a good approximation.
By understanding the concept of "hollow to hem," you can improve the accuracy and consistency of your sewing and garment alteration projects, resulting in better-fitting and more professional-looking finished garments. Remember to always check the measurement on your specific garment, taking into account style and fit variations.
